1. Our band of eight weary travelers was greeted by steward Simon at 9 pm, December 5, with wine, beer, and jamon y queso sandwiches. From left to right, David Jensen, Pam Heath, Stephanie Spar, Walt Crowley, Marie McCaffrey, Michael Hood, and Sue and James Tupper. 5. Looking south down 4th Ave. from the central square, with the Catedral on the left, the Palace of the Governors General (1558) in the middle ground, and Volcan de Agua in the distance. Its eruption in 1527 unleashed a mudslide that destroyed the original colonial capital, and the conquistadors relocated to present-day Antigua.
2. Marie pauses at the Posada’s 4th Ave. entry on the glorious morning of Dec. 6 as a group of children herd their goats up the street. Note that central Antiqua is roughly a dozen blocks square and laid out in a simple grid of cobblestone streets directed by the compass. 6. El Arco de Santa Catalina on 5th Ave. frames Volcan de Agua and marks the location of the native crafts market Nim Pot and several trendy shops, bars, and restaurants on central Antigua’s northern boundary.
3. A resident of Guatemala since 1969, expat historian and preservationist Elizabeth Bell leads a daily morning tour of Antigua from its Parque Central facing the Catedral. She offers an essential introduction to Antigua’s history, architecture, economics, and social dynamics. 7. The baroque Iglesia de La Merced, designed by Juan de Dios Estrada, stands just north of the Arco and dates officially from 1767, although it subsumes structures a century older.
4. Ruins of the original Catedral stand behind its newer facade. Its catacombs supposedly house the remains of Guatemala’s Spanish ruthless conqueror, Don Pedro de Alvorado. Mayans perform rituals few Catholics would recognize in the Catedral and other churches. 8. When American school buses die, they go to Guatemala and are reincarnated as flamboyantly decorated – and insanely driven -- interurban transports. Here, a typical bus passes our van as we head northeast from Antiqua to Lake Atitlan.
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Group departs to Lake Atitlan
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