This
site presents an illustrated summary of a trip to Guatemala by
eight
friends from Seattle between November 20 and
December 5,
2006.
(1)
We arrived at Guatemala City’s Aurora Airport on the evening
of December 5 after a long but smooth flight on American Airlines
from Seattle via Dallas-Fort Worth. Our driver Freddy delivered
us to the charming Posada del Angel in Antigua within an hour of
landing.
We spent the next two days exploring
the original colonial capital of Guatemala (first named Santiago
de Los Caballeros de Guatemala,
later dubbed “Santiago Antigua,” or Old Santiago, now
just Antigua). Many regard it as the best preserved Spanish city
in Latin America chiefly due to its being abandoned by the government
after one earthquake too many in 1773. It is now a UNESCO World
Heritage Site. Like Guatemala City, Antigua sits in a bowl nearly
a mile
above sea level surrounded by active volcanoes.
(2-3)
On Nov. 23 (Thanksgiving Day in the U.S.), our new driver Axel
took us to
the breathtakingly beautiful Lago Atitlan, a vast
flooded
caldera flanked by four active volcanoes a mile above sea level.
From our home base at the beautiful Hotel Atitlan, we visited the
nearby towns of Panajachel and Santiago, shopped the huge Mayan
market in Chichicastenango, called on expat amateur architect and
sculptor,
and a few of us braved a zip-line tour of the caldera canopy.
(4)
Three days later, we returned to Antigua to overnight at the exquisite
Meson Panza Verde (“Green Belly,” a poetic
metaphor for the surrounding jungle), before Axel gathered us up
for the long drive east to the Mayan ruins at Quiriqua and then
north to the Banana Palms resort on Lago de Izabal. The largest
lake in
Central America, Izabal connects with the Caribbean Sea through
Rio Dulce (sweet or freshwater river), a narrow, thickly-foliated
canyon.
Our lanchera (boatman) Luis took us on excursions to Finca Paraiso,
a communal farm featuring a gorgeous hot spring, the mangrove swamps
of Rio Dulce, and the Garifuna (West Indian-African) town of Livingston
on the Caribbean coast.
(5)
On November 30, we set off with driver Carlos for La Lancha, a
secluded eco-resort now owned by Francis
Ford Coppola on Lago
Peten Itza in the northern lowlands. This put us in the jungle,
complete
with raucous howler monkeys, near the great Mayan city-state
of Tikal and lesser ruins at Yaxha, and Tepoxte, which we toured
with
an excellent guide, Pablo, and driver, Ramon.
On December 3, we paid a quick
visit to the little town of Flores, a former island fortress
where Mayans took their last stand,
before hopping a quick flight back to Guatemala City and a
drive back
to Antigua. We stayed again at Panza Verde and did out best
to boost
the local economy by buying, drinking, and eating everything
in sight. Early on the morning of December 5, we paid a reluctant
farewell
to Guatemala for the long trip home with way too much luggage.
Our grand tour was planned by group leader Marie McCaffrey with
Ken Layton of Tropical
Discovery, a Miami-based agency which flawlessly
executed our hotel and internal transportation arrangements. This
was a truly magical journey in a gorgeous but underappreciated land. |